Fortuny e Caramba
In the last of my Fortuny series I bring you my favorite,
his silk velvet. Fortuny grew up around textiles as both his
parents had shops and collected textiles and he was an avid collector himself in
adulthood. So it wasn’t unusual for a man who was an artist to want to
experiment with the old methods of dying on fabrics. As it turned out it was
the theatre that really brought his love of fabrics alive.
Fortuny e Caramba
Fortuny was sketching and designing costumes for the theatre
and his first try at designing wasn’t a great success mainly because the
costumes were to heavy and hampered the performers movements. This led Fortuny
to experiment with a lighter weight fabric such as silk and then velvet for
both his home and dresses.
Mariano Fortuny: His Life and Work
Fortuny was not interested in fashion as we know it, had no
desire to be a couturier but was an artist who just happened to create clothes.
The clothes themselves came from his knowledge of Greek and Venetian clothes
that he painted in his paintings. He loved free flowing styles and to be
honest the time period of styles was changing to clothing that was lighter and
freer in movement.
Paper Illusions by Isabelle de Borchgrave
He went on to patent a dress in a Greek free flowing style
that was executed in pleated silk known as his Delphos. The Delphos dresses
were kept very simple and in solid colors allowing Fortuny to reinterpret
historical designs from the Renaissance and 16th century Venetian
art onto simply cut velvet jackets, wraps, mantles and capes. The over pieces
are what allowed Fortuny to bring in color and his favorite design motifs.
Fashion Memoir: Fortuny by Delphine Desveaux
All the dresses were produced in the studio at the Palazzo
Orfei and were all made by hand, individually, as were all the materials that
went into them. The pleated and printed silk, the velvets, the cords that were
used to gather the different parts, everything except for the glass beads, the
glass beads were ordered from the Murano glass factory.
Metropolitan Museum Collection
Persepolis pattern, which is a Persian design, named for the
ancient city and still produced today.
Metropolitan Museum Collection
Moresco pattern in an early Moorish style and still produced
today.
My pillows in my personal collection, the blue is Fortuny's Clamys design, the green is a 16th century design
The velvet Fortuny used was a very light silk velvet that he
imported from France and came in its raw state of white or slightly
creamy. The whole process from raw materials to the final result depended on
Fortuny. He produced the dyes, the colors, the blocks or stencils and the machines.
Gives a new appreciation into his world and work.
My image
The designs on his velvets were usually layered on and he
never used chemical colors but produced his own natural colors. He imported all
the different ingredients from all over the world and then experimented with
the colors in his studio. Look at the rich background color, Fortuny produced
and dyed the velvets before applying the design. This is what makes Fortuny’s
dresses less of a garment and more of a work of art.
My image
You can see that his velvets have a very low pile and while
Fortuny was dying and stenciling on the velvets they went through a water wash
many times over. You can’t do that with today’s velvets without ruining the
pile. Unlike the softness of today’s silk velvets Fortunys' velvets are rough to
the touch.
My image
Fortuny labeled his velvets with silk faille labels that he
made himself and are coveted today when purchasing his silk velvet and I feel
very fortunate to have two labels. If you’re ever lucky enough to come across a fragment of
Fortuny’s silk velvet be forewarned a small piece big enough for a single
pillow can cost over a thousand dollars.
Fortuny e Caramba
While I know this post is about Fortuny’s silk velvets there’s
one area I haven’t touched on in his work and that’s his silk appliqué work.
Not many people chase after his appliqués mainly because he designed these for
the theatre and not many examples still exist today. I thought I would show one
amazing example for you to see and this piece was design using a medieval motif.
Stephen Shubel, House & Garden
I even managed to find one interior design picture where
Stephen Shubel used a piece of Fortuny’s silk velvet on a chaise. The hanging
light fixture is also Fortuny’s design showing how timeless his pieces are
today.
So we have the theatre to thank for Fortuny getting into
textiles and the silk velvets lead to him producing a more affordable line of
fabrics like the cottons. The theatre is also responsible for him producing his
line of lighting as well. My post gives only a brief explanation of his textile
background and I hope if this has tantalized your interest you’ll pick up a
copy of one of the many books out today and have a great read. Fortuny’s life
is really one of a work of art.
I hope you all have a really enjoyable week with whatever
opportunity it may bring you!
XX
~Debra~
41 comments:
I can't wait to learn more. I am a fan of silk velvet and his work is outstanding. Thank you for sharing the history.
Teresa
xoxo
I just love the pictures of the pillows in your private collection Debra, the grey/green/blue mix is beautiful.
best wishes
Sharon
xx
Hey Debra...this is so fascinating, the colors and hues of the velvets are just so gorgeous seems impossible to duplicate. What special treasures they are and lucky you to own some! The pictures of your private collection are just dreamy, some of my most favorite colors.....thanks for sharing this was a lot of fun to see!
I am so loving learning about this amazing artist
how cool that theatre led to such loveliness. i am feelin all majestic and elegant just viewing your images!
michele
So fascinating, Debra! I'm in love with all pieces!!!!!
Molto phantastico!!!
xxxkarin
Debra,
What an interesting post, I am fascinated by these velvets and the pillows in your private collection are my favorite. I love the design, it is so beautiful!
The costumes are fabulous! One is more beautiful than the next!
I hope you had a great week and are feeling a little rested after your long week last week.
Take care, Elizabeth
What an amazing man and what incredible works of art he produced and how lucky are you to have some in your possession! Have a wonderful week. x Sharon
I have been transported to another world this morning! Beautiful post and fabrics!
Isn't it interesting how the soft and yet at the same time very rich colors speak to so many of us? Thank you for sharing your knowledge about this master designer Debra. And for the last photo too as I have always hoped to have a Fortuny lamp!
Bisous.
WoW! Talk about the epitome of luxurious fabric! I would love to run my hands on a sample! Beautiful!! Happy Monday! XX
Debra, Beautiful fabrics and your pillows are amazing. Very interesting post.
Interesting Debra! I love the muted colors. So luxurious!
This was a fascinating insight into Fortuny's work and its evolution. I wonder if Mary McFadden's Marii pleated fabric is an homage to Mariano? I have a pair of Fortuny designed hanging lamps and I treasure them. How fortunate you have to have some of his fabrics and labels.
Best...Victoria
Love this post and the photos are great!
Oooooh, al this beauty, I love al these beautiful colors. Its so sereen and luxurious at the same time.
Have a wonderful week my dear
XX
Jérôme
I have always been as fascinated with Fortuny's life as I am with his creations.
Beautiful post, my friend!
Kisses to Dylan and Kitty!
xo
Andie
Your entire Fortuny series has been stunning. Thank you so much for sharing your vast knowledge of this true artist. The pieces you have shown are exquisite.
Have a wonderful week...Hmm,does that include a little Brimfield?
Thank you, Debra
XO
Debra,
You are such a wealth of knowledge on the subject of Fortuny! Impressive!!!
I love how the heavy fabrics he started with redirected him to the silks that he would go so far with. A true lesson in "if at first you don't succeed...try, try again!".
And, the pillows that you own are beautiful works of art (and soft too I bet!).
I recall seeing the Fortuny lighting like the last photo at Sue Fisher King. That was my first introduction into this amazing man and his legacy.
Wishing you a truly wonderful week!
xoxo Elizabeth
Silk and velvet....just the sound of those two words together is luxury! Gorgeous photos!
xo
Sharon
You have such and eye for gorgeous fabrics. I love Stephen Shubel and especially those window treatments! xo
truly fascinating deb, my knowledge on fortuny is so limited but you have whet the appetite.
when i come over :-), want to see your labels!
xo
debra
Debra well I think you More than got it together; a fabulous post on Fortuny. This is making me desire another of your pillows...
xoxo
Karena
Art by Karena
Absolutely gorgeous! I just don't think it gets any better than Fortuny and I learned so much about him through your series - nicely done!
Dear Debra,
Thank you for the comprehensive posts on Fortuny. I'm going to bookmark them for future reference, as I know very little about Fortuny. The silk velvets look incredible. They must be so luminous and rich, despite the rough texture.
I do love Fortuny cottons, which I am a little more educated about.
Cheers from DC,
Loi
Tone on Tone
Wonderful info on Fortuny here and some beautiful images. Thanks!
What gorgeous fabrics, Debra...certainly the epitome of luxury!!
Your posts are an answer to my prayers!! beautiful!! and so filled with new information!
Magnificent! I just bought a Silk Velvet Creation from an Artist/Stylist Friend of mine... I adore Exotic, Rich Fabrics... especially the Vintage ones. These Images are exquisite!
Blessings from the Arizona Desert... Dawn... The Bohemian
What a great primer for those of us who didn't know that much about Fortuny--the images are gorgeous. Lovely post!
Debra, I've loved your Fortuny posts. It's been wonderful to learn more about the man behind these legendary fabrics and how they were created. I've long admired the Fotuny-designed lamps and the Delphos dresses and now I know why - the incredible combination of creativity, innovation and artisanship made for beautiful results!
LOVELY PICS:) I really like your blog and want to follow, do you have twitter or FB??
If you want some swedish decor inspiration, you can check out my blog:)
Have a great week.
LOVE Maria at inredningsvis.se
(Sweden)
Hi Debra - This is fascinating! I never knew so much about Fortuny. The pieces from your collection are absolutely beautiful!
Deborah
This is an amazing post, Debra. I love the intricacy of the Moorish pattern- stunning!
Debra,
I wish you a happy Mothers day! Enjoy your weekend.
I was thinking of you when I saw the beautiful fabric/ textile that Little Auguryhad in her sale on one kings lane. Beautiful dress fabric from 1750, I could almost envision Madame du Barry.
Thank you for stopping buy this week, I hope you try one of the cinnamon recipies. They are all yummy.
Enjoy your weekend, Elizabeth
Exquisite. This is the only word for this kind of work. Long ago I met a beautiful older woman who took me to her bedroom & closet, which was entirely covered, walls, drapery, all chairs, bed, everything in Fortuny fabrics. I nearly died right there.
Your pillows are beautifully sumptious, I wish I had them !!
xx's
Amazing blog! Would you like to follow each other? ;X
FashionSpot.ro
Wow Debra!!! Those images are stunning... and your pillows... no words!!! All I can say is someday... maybe. Thanks for always sharing your amazing knowledge and talents! Happy Mother's day to you!!!
love,
Desiree
Simply gorgeous. Talk about having found his own niche!
Educational and inspirational as always Ms. Debra. No need to pick up any books - I learn the best from the best - and yes that would be you!
Warm hugs to you.
Mon
I've been off-line for far to long...this is such a great overview of Fortuny! I've known several avid collectors..and have tried to stay dispassionate myself...out of self preservation! Sounds like a seriously expensive hobby!!! Your pillows...the labels...thrilling! Oh, how you must love your job!!! XO Trish
I'm not an expert when it comes to this. Didn't even know this was possible. Useful read, appreciate your posting this.
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